Thursday, April 2, 2009

Home safe and sound.

Got home last night. Most dangerous aspect of trip was driving
through Syd in pouring rain with semi trailers all around. Now for the
clean up.

--
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The mighty Snowy River


Just a mill pond these days. It must have been an awesome sight before the water diversion.

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Camped tonight at Native Dog Flat


GR 970 160, just south of the AAWT at the Cobberas where it turned NW. This cross country route is on good quality dirt road and I think it gives easier access to drop boxes than the route I used to place them.

Bonegilla Migrant Reception Centre


Near Albury/Wodonga.

I visited it this morning as Eddie spent his first 3 months in AU here. He has fond memories of rabbiting with a mates dog and a general good time in the open fields, before the family headed to Geelong and as they say, the rest is history. It routinely housed 7000 people. The visitor book was unfortunately just 2 days old but each person making an entry was pleased to be able to return and relive memories. Only block 19 remains (of 28) but this is a dozen or more buildings including the hall, the kitchen and living quarters so an impression is easily gained.

Lake Hume


I do believe there is something missing here!

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Mt Loch Car Park


We got confused at Christmas as it is not sign posted as Mt Loch car park. It is now mostly the reservoir seen for snow machines. Coming from Harrietville it is 500m before the tunnel.

Drop boxes at Hotham and Glen Wills have now been collected. I am going to head cross country from Omeo to Jindabyne, and will camp half way so no reception tonight.

Margaret and Eddie


Saints!

I effectively hoisted myself upon this couple out of the blue in Walhalla. One moment they are having a quiet coffee at the only place open in Walhalla after a week of touring VIC and catching up with friends. The next, they are somehow obliged to give a ragged, smelly, complete stranger a lift to Mel.

Leaving Walhalla, we checked out Thomson Reservoir. Perfect, I had been up and down through its headwaters of the Thomson for the last 4 days, so I was keen to see what it was all about.

Later, we had got to the main road running west to Mel, when I made the mistake of mentioning that fresh fruit / veges was what you craved in the bush. Next thing the car is pulled up, the Esky has been raided and bananas, oranges, biscuits and hot cross buns magically appear.

I had agreed with Eddie, that any public transport into central Mel would be fine, when suddenly E&M suggest I stay the night with them at Geelong. I'd been feeling a bit crook the last week, so a family home and friendly company is appealing and I agree.

We stop at the local club for a meal on the way through and quickly visit the family business to check all is well, before we arrive at their home and I am given the choice of guest rooms, and run of the bathroom and laundry.

Absolutely everything, including the pack, goes in the wash (remember E&M have a weeks worth of washing themselves). Magically track pants, a sweat top and even socks appear as I have nothing to wear. After a shower and a shave I feel like a human again. After a cuppa, I slept like a log on a super comfy bed.

Next morning there is porridge and as much coffee and toast as I want. Whippetman phones to organise to meet face to face, so I can pass on what I have learnt, for their attempt in spring. We are stunned to realise we are both in Geelong. When he calls to pick me up, Andrew is immediately invited to morning tea and then for lunch.

Eddie and Margaret, I really can not thank you enough for your kindness to a complete stranger. God Bless You.


Some coincidences.
E&M have travelled widely round the world over the last ten years, so we had a number of places to compare notes on including Egypt, the UK, China and Canada. My mother is also called Margaret and mysteriously they both suffer a similar rare medical condition.

I should have figured there was a German connection when Eddie checked the origin of my name. Turns out he was born in Poland and spent his first 10 years caught in the middle of WWII and its immediate aftermath. Most of this time in Bavaria (home of OSRAM), including the towns of Regensberg and Augsberg where OSRAM have plants. He and his brother had a few lucky escapes including a skating on thin ice near drowning that reminded me of something similar that happened to my brother.

The big coincidence though was to learn they had just been to NZ and spent their time with friends at a small township called Coromandel. As a kid and young adult we used to visit this harbour and its village from our boat regularly for supplies of fuel, water, bread, milk, fruit and of course the all important ice-cream bribe to walk the 2k into town. I caught my first and only decent sized Schnapper in this harbour and I used to play with the tender and windsurfer in the tidal race between the mainland and the first island. To see this place again in their photos was quite remarkable!

E&M - Thanks again for your generous hospitality.

Beaut. Spot


Mitta Mitta Waterhole and picnic ground.

Mitta Mitta is a quiet little place heading up to Omeo that I would normally pass through. I stopped in at the General Store as it was dead and looked like it could use some custom. Wrong - the place was run off its feet and its coffee and cake special far surpassed anything I have had in a capital city.
The baking was fresh from one of the fifty local residents.

Monday, March 30, 2009

Drop Box 5 - Jamieson, Licola Rd


So can you see it?

Photo is taken just 1m from box.

Do not underestimate this road and the time required to make your drop.

Allow 1:20 driving time from Jamieson, each way. The road sign says unsuitable for 2WD (in fact it says the road is closed but this is the winter snow closure sign dropped into place by accident), but take your time, watch for holes and you will be fine.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

What are the chances?

20 people a year do the AAWT.

What is the probability I sit down to breakfast at the place I am staying and strike up a conversation with someone whose sister did it last year.

The chance has to be millions to one.

Annie, if you read this, congratulations on last year. Your sister described the
same dramas of track conditions, blackberries, and water shortage that
I faced. It has taken a lot out of me. Well done to you!

--
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My Gosh, the noise is simply awesome!



Mechanical Swan?



Aussie Dropbear in natural environment!



At F1 GP


Start 40 mins away.

Check this out!


I knew I had lost some weight, the hip belt had less and less spare webbing, but sub 60 is crazy. I started at 63.1 so a 4kg loss is substantial. The weight has been lost from the arms and from the chest where ribs can be seen like I've been in a labour camp.

Saturday, March 28, 2009

Supporting the Swans in Melbourne


Swans ahead 36 to 28 at half time. Heading to the F1 GP tomorrow.

Day 29


21k, finished just before 1pm. Looking up the Thomson River from the Iron Bridge. A straight forward day with the pleasant surprise that the distance was 4k shorter than Sisemans guide indicates. I did come through a section of track that was closed due to fire damage (how I missed the 'track closed' sign I can not understand). Most of it has already been cleared with a small dozer but there was a 300m section that was rather hairy. Was very excited to reach Walhalla but disappointed that I could not locate the start /finish sign. Still I had arrived and made my way to the cafe for a bite to eat and a coffee. On learning I had done the entire AAWT the lady at the cafe was astounded, I was only the second she had met in two years. She was able to offer shower facilities which were gratefully accepted. At the cafe were a couple passing through and mentioned they were heading home to Mel. I pleaded my case for a lift which they were happy to help me out with. More on that shortly. Very happy to be finished and back in civilisation.

What goes around, comes around.

Back to Day 27, the morning after Ross, the trail bike rider has
helped me out by collecting water for me. 9 in the morning and 300m
up a very steep fire trail, and guess what I find - the tool bag. So
I put it in the backpack and try to remember the town he came from and
think about how I can possibly track him down. I had a few ideas when
20 min later I could hear that familiar popping and growling of a
trail bike in the distance. 10 min later Ross arrived and I was able
to return his favour - $150 of kit so he was happy. He has very
recently sold his family farm. They have moved to their holiday home
at Aberfeldy to rest and recover from 20 years of hard yakka, and
consider the next move. In the meantime he is having fun exploring
this historical gold mining area on his bike. For those that know it
is a KTM 530 modified with a long range tank and heavy duty
suspension.

--
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Friday, March 27, 2009

One very happy chappie!


Star Hotel in the background. The cafe to the right had just one pie left and it had my name all over it! Even better - a HUGE slice of chocolate cake!

Unbelievable but this tiny cafe was able to offer a shower. How good did that feel?

Lake Thomson


Mel water supply looking like a puddle.

Done and Dusted


Journeys official end at Northern Garden camp ground. Unable to locate start finish sign board.

Been there, Done that!



Yahoo! I see civilisation.



How good does that look!



Thursday, March 26, 2009

Table and chairs right, fireplace center.



Cave at Mushroom Rocks


That is one huge boulder! The cave underneath it is full head height.

Day 28 - One more sleep


25k.

The photo is not clear I know, but this sign board shows the whole route and the dot at the bottom left says "you are here". Now that feels good!

Today was straight forward - essentially climbing up onto the Baw Baw plateau, walking across it and beginning the descent to Walhalla. Camped at 435 600 tonight. Came through Mushroom Rocks late in the day. Very unique and a bit spooky in a 'Picnic at Hanging Rock' way. Last day tomorrow - about 25k and then will treat myself to a Hotel room for the night. Cooler today. Max at 1400 was 11C

Mt St Phillack - 1556m


Highest point in the Baw Baws. Its all downhill from here!

How to manufacture Sandals.


Start with an expensive pair of Cascadia trail shoes, train and run 6 ft, train with ACZD Girls for Oxfam, train and complete 3 peaks and K2K. Then try to get an AAWT out of them. Voila-Sandals! I phoned Clare from Johnnies Top and asked for another pair to be mailed to Hotham PO urgently. Not only that but she organised the lodge at the same time. Legend! Thanks Clare, and yes you did 'tell me so!'

A hard day at the office.


Taking a leaf from Mary's book of bush walking and relaxing on Mt Whitelaw.

Day 27

22k +1400 -700.
My supposedly soft day turned sour again as the track went to poo at
4pm. Thats 3 days in a row. This time the overgrown fire trail where
I was expecting trouble was clear and perfect. Everything was marked
100%. Then nothing, No marker to say the foot track starts here. Just
bush - I scout around for an hr. Did I miss it? Is it further on?
After all the guide update notes say that the southern end has been
re-routed. I bush bash for an hr before finally picking up the track
that they have been working on and clearing the logs from. Even then
it comes and goes. Not fun!

--
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Wow - this tree was cut a while back


Those slots are for the planks for the timber man to stand on while cutting. This tree is exactly on the corner where the track goes to cactus.

Steep!


Straight up this morning. Original Fire Trail has been widened to 50m on left. This was so steep, i thought I would end up back in the river. There have been several like this that put Pluvi to shame!

The bridge over the Thompson River


One of the main supplies for Mel water this river has less flow than the Cox that supplies Syd

Sometimes you just get lucky.

As per Day 26, I am in a dump of a camp site and as night falls
realise there is no access to the river for water. I will have a 4k
round trip to get some in the dark. Off in the distance I can hear a
trail bike that gets louder and finally arrives in pitch black, head
lamp blazing. I had seen him blast past that afternoon and we had
exchanged a wave. He was back tracking his route looking for a
missing tool kit, had I seen it? He already knew that I was doing
the AAWT having bumped into the same fire break crew that I had spoken
to earlier. Long and short he offered to go fill up the wine bladder
for me. Thanks Ross, what a champ!

--
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Nope, not a headstone


Just a summit Cairn

Day 26

23k +1000 -1100.

Camped at Jordan River, GR 390 309. 3x25k days to go!
Late start, long lunc and a late finish as the track turned tricky late in the
day.

Spent half an hr chatting to one of the guys clearing fire
breaks around the Mel water catchment as a result of the 2006 fires.
The NS ones are 50m wide with odd trees left to give 30% canopy cover.

Arrived at Jordan River with an hr to sunset but misread the guide
book and ended up on a bit of waste ground, 2k from water. More on
that later.

Feeling stronger after being off colour for a few days.

--
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Ready for a bonfire!


Stacks of timber from clearing fire breaks ready for the right weather conditions and they will be set alight. Up on the hillside you might be able to see a Caterpillar working toward the top.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Clare, Can you ID?


This one in middle of active road and wouldn't move. 1m long, cream or pale yellow belly. Small head. Same as all the others seen since Hotham.

BBOG Nom 5


Odd nomination but I hate trying to store a regular size utensile. They just never fit in the billy and I never know where to put them. I fully expected the hinge to self destruct in 48hrs and have regular replacements in every drop box. Still 100%. And yes only the fork, no spoon or knife.

Black River


Lovely to have running water but not what you would call pretty.

Log Jam in Black River


What a mess, I am camped on a few square meters of flat cleared area next to this.

An Olympic sized pool this one


There has been significant rain about a week ago. Just nothing fresh and running for the last few days walking

Day 25

Day 25
14k +700 -1300 Now camped at Black River. Bit of a bludge day as I
opened the drop box and celebrated surviving the last 5 days ex
Hotham. Toughest section to date. Good news is just 95k to go from
here. At drop box ate all sorts of goodies, removed some non
essential items from the pack (long johns. worn once, fleece, forecast
is 8 min, stove , used 3 times), patched up the groundsheet and
generally relaxed for 4hrs. Finally got going at 1 and true to form
the trail went bad as the end of the day approached. Took 3hrs to
move 5k, reaching the River with 30min of daylight. Just my luck, it
is one of those horrible snarled up, overgrown ones. Only thing for
it was to wade it, as not possible to walk the edge. Fortunately have
located about the one flat spot down here for a camp site. Now I know
why I camp high, and not on water.
Hoping for a straight forward day tomorrow- yeah right!

--
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Monday, March 23, 2009

BBOG Nom 4


Gladware plate and believe it or not cup. Have proved to be totally indestructible. Billy fits perfectly in plate and cup is packed with bits and pieces then fits in billy with pocket rocket stove and other bits.

BBOG Nom 3


This is the kit you carry and pray it never is used. The new freq. Personal locator beacon. PLB. Awesome - weight 250g, not even I mind carrying that. Sends signal via satellite and this model transmits your GPS location accurate to 40m. Now the unbelievable bit. Cost is $600 but the BWRS website indicated the Snowy Mt NPWS offices loan them. Incredible but the cost was $20 bond, $10 rental for the entire trip. No I haven't forgotten a 0! Normally 3 week max hire but the manager was happy to make an exception for the AAWT.

Yahoo!


Major river systems for the final section. My water problems are at an end. The 2L cached at this drop box was a good idea as well.

Boy does this taste great!


At the drop box

The world below 1200m does not exist!



Day 24

34k +/-1850m.

Big day. 17k off track and painfully slow. Now camped
at Rumpf Saddle near drop box. Route up to Mt Sunday is a totally
overgrown fire trail. A very real chance to get lost on that one.
Only one source of water all day- one third of the way up Mt Sunday there is a 50m
vertical bush bash down to a creek, but I could hear the creek running from above. Sounded like
heaven to me.

How desperate is that - to dream about water?

Anyone thinking of doing the AAWT, do not underestimate the water issue. You know that it is
a serious issue when stagnant water is wheel ruts are starting to look like an option!!

--
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Awesome Cairn


The route up and down Mt McDonald yesterday, was littered with huge cairns. I cCan't understand why as most were in obvious places along the ridgeline and no one was using the route (track practically non existant).

Caro

Thanks for the best wishes and Good Gig comment. My blog master
editor general is doing a fantastic job figuring out my spelling
errors and what I meant to say. Not to mention logistics support for
footwear, clothing and accomodation issues. What a champ!

--
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Sunday, March 22, 2009

Mt McDonald


With south bound ridge in front of it. Don't bother unless you are looking for a twisted ankle.

Believe it or not!


This is actually a fire trail. Marker at top right on tree tells me I am not completely lost.

This is hard work


No track to speak of and full of rubbish trying to trip you up. Cairn, top right corner tells me I am in the rigt place.

Now to the peak in front


Then left along the ridge.

From summit of Mt McDonald


I've come via the flat topped Mt. If I see 'Indistinct Track' in the guide book again, I will scream!

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Day 23

24k, now camped 1k south of Mt Clear in a saddle. Left Mt Speculation
this morning dropping straight into Horrible Gap then straight up Mt
Buggery, then the Crosscut Saw - took 3hrs all up. Met a number of
people who all offered assistance when I said I was doing the AAWT. I
have a lovely Pear, thanks to Andrew and Heather. Bit dull by
comparison after Mt Hewitt but Mt Magdala was the afternoon highlight.
In theory I should reach the next drop box tomorrow but I doubt it.

--
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Looking back


Hells Window, top right. The hiding place of the kids in the 'Tomorrow the War Began' series was called Hell. If this is the kind of country they were hiding in, no wonder they were never found!

Steep huh!


The side of Mt Magdala. There is a decent track there somewhere.